This is the time of year when all the major publications come out with their list of the best places to visit in 2023, and while I often contribute to these lists, I thought I would put my own spin on the concept by highlighting 23 places to inspire your travels—all in Italy. Some are places I know well and wholeheartedly recommend, some have exciting new reasons to visit, and some are on my wishlist just because I haven’t had the chance to visit them yet—and you might not have either.
While I understand that editorially speaking, major publications usually only include places with exciting new developments or compelling reasons to visit now, I don’t think that most people consider these things when planning their trips. Yes, you might plan a trip around a major event like a music festival or the Venice Biennale, but I don’t think that a swanky new hotel opening in Capri is enough of a reason for the average person to visit Capri. I think most people choose where to travel because they want to return to a favorite place or discover somewhere they’ve never been. So while you’ll see some heavy-hitters on this list, my emphasis is mainly on under-the-radar destinations that you might not have considered before.
Without further ado, here are my picks, organized from north to south.
The Dolomites
A favorite ski destination for Romans, the Dolomites are becoming one of Italy’s most forward-thinking regions, with sleek modern hotels like Forestis and culinary destinations like Michelin-starred restaurant SanBrite and the owners’ agriturismo El Brite de Larieto, where they produce their own cheese and charcuterie. It’s also popular in the summer, when you can go hiking and explore lakes like the extremely picturesque Lago di Braies.
Trieste
On the extreme northeastern corner of Italy, near the borders with Slovenia and Croatia, this port city was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, whose influence can still be felt to this day. It’s the capital of Friuli Venezia-Giulia, which made headlines last fall when the tourism board announced it would reimburse your journey if you travel by train anywhere from Italy, which seems like a pretty good reason to tack it onto a trip to Venice.
Lake Como
Is there ever a bad time to visit Lake Como? Despite what I said in the intro about hotels, I personally would plan a trip to Lake Como just to stay at Passalacqua, the ultra-luxe new hotel in an 18th-century villa by the owners of the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, where I stayed on my first visit to Lake Como. Luckily, the Y-shaped lake is so large that there are plenty of picturesque towns and noble villas on its shores worth exploring, even if you’ve already been there
Bergamo and Brescia
Nestled between Venice and Milan, these two northern Italian cities have jointly been named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2023. Once the epicenter of the Covid-19 pandemic in Italy, they’re bouncing back with loads of cultural programming. They’re also a gateway to the Franciacorta wine region and the lakes region. For a more under-the-radar alternative to Lake Como, you might want to visit Lake Iseo or Lake Garda.
Milan
Italy’s fashion and design capital is the country’s most internationally minded metropolis, so it’s no surprise that it has Italy’s most exciting restaurant scene right now. It’s also getting a few exciting new hotels, like Portrait Milano, the Carlton by Rocco Forte Hotels, and Casa Baglioni. Beyond that, there are plenty of amazing things to see in Milan, from Da Vinci’s Last Supper to Villa Necchi Campiglio.
Piedmont
I’ve written a lot about this under-the-radar wine region and its many charms. Personally, I would like to spend more time in the capital, Turin, and visit its opulent palaces and elegant cafes, but in order to do Piedmont right, you really should road trip around the little villages and wineries. There are a few chic new countryside resorts, but the most compelling reason to go is just to soak up the scenery, drink lots of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera, and eat lots of truffles.
Modena and Parma
Some of Italy’s most iconic food products come from these towns in Emilia Romagna: aceto balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar), prosciutto di Parma, and Parmigiano Reggiano. And did you know that in and around Parma there are a bunch of museums dedicated to these and other foods? That seems like reason enough to go if you ask me. Of course, serious foodies will plan a trip here just to dine at the three-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana, which was crowned the world’s best restaurant twice, and stay at Casa Maria Luigia, run by chef Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara Gilmore.
Portofino
Visitors going to Liguria typically flock to the Cinque Terre, but I dream of visiting glamorous Portofino and staying at the Belmond Splendido Mare, which was recently renovated. This sleepy fishing village is best known for the candy-colored buildings lining the harbor and the celebrities who vacationed there, including Elizabeth Taylor, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, and Ava Gardner. Regardless of where you stay, this is the place to taste Ligurian specialties like pesto genovese and focaccia in addition to fantastic seafood.
Rimini
This seaside town on the coast of Emilia Romagna was, until recently, known for family-friendly beaches and thumping nightclubs, but the new Fellini Museum dedicated to hometown hero Federico Fellini is drawing a different kind of tourist: film buffs. Part of the museum is located in a castle and part is in the Fulgor Cinema, which ignited Fellini’s passion for the movies.
Umbria
Italy’s traditional crafts are dying out, but in Perugia Marta Cucchia is keeping the art of weaving Umbrian textiles alive at Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti, started by her grandmother. Stay at Vocabolo Moscatelli, a new boutique hotel inside a 12th-century monastery about an hour away in the countryside, and use it as a base to explore Umbria’s rolling hills and Medieval villages like Assisi, Orvieto, and Deruta, which is famous for its many artisan ceramicists.
Maremma
Tuscany is best known for Florence, the countryside, and Medieval villages, but the coast is still a bit of a hidden gem. In the Maremma, there are wild beaches, hot springs like the Terme di Saturnia, and the Giardino dei Tarocchi, a bucket list site for art lovers. Created by Niki de Saint Phalle, it’s full of larger-than-life mosaic sculptures representing figures from the tarot deck, inspired by Park Güell in Barcelona and the Parco dei Mostri in Tuscia.
Tuscia
Speaking of which, Tuscia—which comprises several towns north of Rome—is another underrated place worth visiting. Top of the list should be the Sacro Bosco (aka the Parco dei Mostri), a 16th-century Mannerist park populated by enormous sculptures of mythological creatures carved out of the rock. Roman nobility built their palaces here, and you can still visit some of them, including the stunning (and crowd-free!) Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola.
Trabocchi Coast
For nature lovers, Abruzzo offers hiking in national parks and unspoiled beaches as well as authentic villages like Guardiagrele. I’m especially intrigued by the Trabocchi Coast, in the province of Chieti, which is characterized by wooden fishing platforms, some of which have been transformed into restaurants.
Rome
If you haven’t been to Rome in a while, you might want to start planning a trip. 2023 is going to be a banner year for the city, with new museums and restored archeological sites to visit, plus a major hotel boom coming—in addition to timeless delights like fantastic food, major monuments, and charming neighborhoods to explore.
Ponza
This little island off the coast of Lazio is a favorite summertime escape for Romans, but gets few international tourists. It has all the natural beauty and small town charm of Italy’s more famous islands, but none of the exorbitantly priced hotels or designer stores. Ever since I visited in 2019, I’ve been dreaming of going back.
Caserta
Just north of Naples, this city is best known for the Reggia di Caserta, the opulent royal palace that rivals Versailles. The palace has just reopened a 19th-century wing after lengthy restorations. Another reason to go: Caserta is home to I Masanielli, crowned one of the world’s best pizzerias. You’ll need to book a table a month or two in advance.
Naples
If you, like me, have only passed through Napoli on the way to the islands or the Amalfi Coast, it’s time to plan a trip there to get under the city’s skin. Be sure to visit the Archeological Museum, see the Cristo Velato, and explore the Quartieri Spagnoli. Let Annie Ojile, who teamed up with art historian Alexandra Lawrence to launch All Street Napoli, be your guide.
Ischia
If you haven’t been to Ischia yet, what are you waiting for? Larger and less crowded than its neighbor Capri, this island off the coast of Naples is very much on the radar thanks to Elena Ferrante. It offers beautiful beaches, thermal hot springs, charming towns like Forio, vineyards, botanic gardens, and fantastic food. The island is recovering from a major landslide, so plan a trip to show your support for the recovery efforts.
Matera
Wedged between Calabria and Puglia, Basilicata is another under-the-radar region worth exploring. Known for its sassi (cave dwellings), Matera has been enjoying a Renaissance since it was named Europe’s Capital of Culture in 2019. For a truly unique trip, pair it with a stay at Palazzo Margherita, the charming boutique hotel owned by director Francis Ford Coppola. You could also make a detour to Matera during a trip to Puglia.
Puglia
The heel of the boot is becoming more and more popular—and for good reason. The Adriatic coast is home to several towns designated as Borghi Più Belli d’Italia (Italy’s most beautiful villages), including Alberobello, Cisternino, and Locorotondo, which I wholeheartedly recommend. I would like to return to explore the Ionian side, which is known for the best beaches. Go now before the area becomes overrun by tourists.
Carloforte
When you think of Sardinia, you probably think of the glamorous Costa Smeralda, but there are lots of more underrated places to explore. An off-the-beaten path island where you can experience an authentic Italian summer is the Isola di San Pietro off the southwestern coast of Sardinia. Known for tuna fishing, this little island settled by Ligurian sailors has beaches with some of the clearest water I’ve ever seen.
Pantelleria
With Taormina likely to be invaded by fans of The White Lotus next summer, those of us who want to experience a more authentic side of Sicily will have to go further off the beaten path. Pantelleria, a tiny island off the coast of Sicily, is still wild and untamed—a hidden gem where Giorgio Armani goes to unplug at his summer home.
Northwestern Sicily
The northwestern part of Sicily is also worth a deeper exploration. Palermo is an obvious choice—and there’s plenty to do there—but there are many more towns to visit, like Cefalù, Trapani, and the Zingaro Nature Reserve near San Vito lo Capo.
Are any of these places calling to you? Are there others you would add? Leave a comment and tell me where in Italy you want to go in 2023!
Further Reading
My esteemed colleague Jaclyn DeGiorgio just launched a new podcast called The Milanophiles dedicated to championing this underrated city.
Lonely Planet named Umbria one of the best places to travel in 2023.
I wrote an entry about Rome for The Points Guy’s list of the 18 Best places to travel in 2023, which highlights the most exciting new developments in the city.
This New York Times article about a pizza pilgrimage to Campania inspired me to book a table at I Masanielli.
For Fodor’s, I wrote about the trulli (ancient homes with conical roofs) common in Puglia.
For AFAR, I wrote about where to go in Sicily if you liked The White Lotus.
For Food & Wine, I wrote about why Carloforte is heaven for food lovers.
Love that Rimini and the Fellini museum made the list! Also Deruta — quite a charming town and of course the mothership of Umbrian ceramica. Great post!
Fabulous roundtrip for 2023! Grazie mille for including us for Napoli.