Welcome to the New Roman Times’ 72 Hours series! Why 72 hours? Because the New York Times publishes a “36 Hours” series, but in my opinion, 36 hours isn’t nearly enough time to spend in Italy’s greatest cities and most compelling regions. From time to time, I’ll spotlight popular destinations like Rome, Milan, Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast and Capri for paid subscribers. Have a place you’d like a 72 hours guide to? Email newromantimes@substack.com or leave a comment here!
Lake Como: the name conjures up images of elegantly dressed people cruising around on speedboats, Neoclassical villas, immaculate gardens, and Aperol spritzes sipped at lakefront resorts. A glamorous vision to be sure. And while all of these things can indeed be found on Lake Como, there’s much more to Italy’s most famous lake.
Located in Lombardia, about an hour from Milan, Lake Como has been a retreat for the upper class since the days of the Roman Empire. It has appeared in the writing of Virgil, the two Plinys, and the poet Claudian. It owes its natural beauty to its topography and shape: it forms an upside-down Y and is surrounded by limestone and granite mountains. Each branch of the lake is thin enough that from one side you can clearly see the other, so no matter where you are, you’re always looking at some beautiful scenery.
I first visited Lake Como for a mere 24 hours in 2016 and immediately realized I made a huge mistake by not staying longer. I have returned a couple of times since then, most recently last October, when I spent a week bedding down at three different luxury hotels, visiting historic villas, and cruising around on a couple of very chic little speedboats. It was the end of the season, right before the hotels were closing for the winter, which might just be the perfect time to go because the weather was wonderful and it wasn’t too crowded.
If you’re planning a trip to Italy, a classic pairing is Milan and Lake Como. If you’re coming from elsewhere—say, Rome or Florence—you could take a high-speed Frecciarossa train to Milan and then get on the regional train to Como, the largest city on the lake. If you want the freedom to explore the lake’s shores, it’s best to rent a car, but be mindful that there are many narrow roads and from what I hear, they get very clogged with traffic in the summer. Otherwise, there are ferries and taxis available. Within 72 hours, you can see the highlights and enjoy a bit of dolce far niente too.
DAY ONE
Arrive and make a (hopefully) grand entrance at your hotel before heading out to visit the gardens of one of the lake’s grandest villas and one of its most famous towns.
3 p.m. - Check in and get situated
There are lots of glamorous hotels on Lake Como. Choosing the right one is a matter of taste (and budget). Modern design fans will love Il Sereno Lago di Como, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World designed by acclaimed Milan-based designer Patricia Urquiola.
Run by Valentina De Santis—a true tastemaker and icon of Italian hospitality—Grand Hotel Tremezzo is the archetype of the classic grand hotel, but with a few twists that make it feel like the setting for a pop star’s fantasy Lake Como sojourn. Also run by De Santis, Passalacqua is smaller and more intimate—and feels more faithful to the historic ideal of an upper class villa filled with precious antiques.
Other options include the historic Villa d’Este, a member of Leading Hotels of the World known for its romantic gardens and famous visitors; Grand Hotel Serbelloni in Bellagio, which is right in the center of the action; and the Mandarin Oriental Lago di Como, which is housed in a historic villa and has a beautiful design.
5:30 p.m. - Visit Villa Melzi and Bellagio
After getting situated at your hotel, take a ferry or taxi over to Bellagio, one of the most famous towns on the lake. Start with a visit to the gardens of Villa Melzi d’Eril, built in 1810 for Francesco Melzi d’Eril, Duke of Lodi and Vice President of Napoleon’s Italian Republic. The villa itself is closed to the public, but for €10 you can buy a ticket to visit the extensive gardens, the museum, and the chapel.
Afterwards, walk about a mile to reach the center of Bellagio, where you can spend some time strolling around, popping into the shops, or perhaps enjoying an aperitivo. You might have to contend with some crowds, but I think it’s worth seeing, even if you just visit briefly.
The town is built on a hill, so there are lots of stairs. From the top, you can take some beautiful photos of the narrow lanes and staircases with the lake peeking through. If you want to have an aperitivo, the place to do so is Bar Sanremo, which has tables right on the lakeside promenade.
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