A Nostalgic Ride Aboard the Arlecchino

Issue #86

Usually the train is simply a way to get from Point A to Point B, but sometimes a ride aboard a train is a journey in and of itself. That was certainly the case on a recent trip I took from Rome to Perugia aboard the Arlecchino, which had been transformed into the Sina Express for a day in order to celebrate the 140th anniversary of the Sina Brufani in Perugia and the 150th anniversary of the Sina Bernini Bristol in Rome.

The Arlecchino (or Harlequin in English) was designed by legendary midcentury architect Gio Ponti and inaugurated in 1960 in honor of the Olympics. It was a revolutionary design at the time—a time when Italy was enjoying a post-war boom, particularly in industrial design, resulting in many iconic Italian creations, including the Vespa and the Fiat 500, which are still beloved today.

Italy’s national railways were already working to meet increased demand for fast, comfortable rail service, and when Rome won the bid to host the 1960 Olympics, the need for new trains became even more urgent. The FS Company rose to the challenge, building the first four Arlecchino trains in record time. At the time, the Arlecchino had a maximum speed of 180 kilometers per hour and could hold 148 passengers.

The Arlecchino had a 26-year life span, going out of service in 1986. It was occasionally used for charter service, but was actually slated for demolition in the late ‘90s. Luckily, that didn’t happen. In 2015, the FS Foundation began the arduous task of preserving and updating it. The interiors were meticulously restored according to the original design and the train was fitted with the technology needed to allow it to run on Italy’s modern electrified tracks.

Now of course, the train looks quaint and vintage, but the aerodynamic design was considered very modern at the time. The most revolutionary aspect of the design, though, was that the conductor’s area was placed on top of the train in order to free up the front and rear carriages for viewing galleries open to passengers. They were meant to give passengers an almost cinematic experience. Indeed, I loved watching the landscape go rushing by from the viewing gallery. 

The four cars each have seats upholstered in a different color. At the front is the blue car, then the gold car, then the red car (part of which is now a snack bar), and the green car. I was seated in the green car, but got up several times to explore the train and have an espresso macchiato in the snack bar outfitted with a 1960s-inspired Faema espresso machine. 

The Arlecchino is one of several vintage Italian trains that are being restored and returned to service. For now, it’s only available for private charters, but a rep for the Fondazione FS Italiane told me that they’re currently restoring the Settebello, which was the Arlecchino’s predecessor. The Espresso Cadore has also been recently restored and resumed service as a night train ferrying passengers between Rome and the Dolomites. And of course, there’s the famed Venice Simplon Orient Express, which will travel to the Ligurian coast for the first time this year, connecting Paris to Portofino.

The trend makes sense, of course. Trains are not only a comfortable and efficient way to travel, they’re also a very sustainable way to travel. And who doesn’t love a little vintage train nostalgia?

Further Reading

• I was lucky enough to ride the Arlecchino thanks to Sina Hotels, which chartered it for its anniversary celebrations. Check out my review of Sina Brufani in Perugia for Italy Magazine.

• My colleague Kathleen Rellihan wrote about her experience aboard the Espresso Cadore for AFAR. You can read her story here.

• A few years ago, I had the pleasure of riding aboard the Venice Simplon Orient Express from Venice to Paris and covered the train’s new suites for Architectural Digest. You can read my article here.

• Planning a train trip through Italy? Be sure to read my tips for navigating Italy’s trains like a pro.

• Want to book a journey aboard a vintage train? See all the itineraries available via the Fondazione FS Italiane here.