Rome Neighborhood Guide: Monti

Issue #106

Welcome to the New Roman Times’ new neighborhood guide series! Every now and then, I’ll spotlight a specific neighborhood that I think is worth a deeper exploration for paid subscribers. Have a neighborhood you’d like a guide to? Email newromantimes@substack.com or leave a comment here! 

One of the oldest neighborhoods in Rome, Rione Monti (or just Monti) may have been a bit of a slum during the Roman Empire, but nowadays it’s one of the city’s most desirable places to live. Centrally located between Termini Station and the Roman Forum, it nevertheless hasn’t been completely overrun by the tourists that flock to the nearby Colosseum and Trevi Fountain. 

Monti is served by a metro stop (Cavour) and buses, making it a good base for exploring the city. But what I love the most about the neighborhood is that it has retained its artsy, bohemian feel. You won’t find chain stores here; instead, you’ll find plenty of independent boutiques selling artisan goods, some great restaurants, and excellent bars. 

Every year, I update the chapter of Fodor’s Rome that includes Monti, so I’ve gotten to know the neighborhood well over the years. These are my favorite places to eat and drink, things to do, shops, and hotels.

Where to Eat

Be sure to book a table in advance if you want to eat at Rocco Ristorante

Don’t expect Michelin-starred fine dining here. Monti’s restaurants tend to be casual neighborhood joints. One of my favorites is La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, which serves Roman classics and creative twists on the classics, like carbonara vignarola (carbonara pasta with peas, fava beans, and artichokes) and la gricia pasta with figs. Rocco Ristorante is popular among in-the-know Romans and travelers for its cool kid vibes, vaulted brick ceilings, and authentic home cooking.