72 Hours in Ischia
Issue #192
Welcome to the New Roman Times’ 72 Hours series! Why 72 hours? Because the New York Times publishes a “36 Hours” series, but in my opinion, 36 hours isn’t nearly enough time to spend in Italy’s greatest cities and most compelling regions. From time to time, I’ll spotlight popular destinations like Rome, Milan, Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast, Capri, and Lake Como for paid subscribers. Have a place you’d like a 72 hours guide to? Email newromantimes@substack.com or leave a comment here!
If you haven’t been to Ischia yet, what are you waiting for? Only an hour from Naples by hydrofoil, this enchanting island is six times as large as Capri and feels more laid-back too. It’s been drawing travelers to soak in its thermal hot springs for more than 2,000 years. In fact, the Greeks colonized it before the Romans arrived. More recently, it was one of the settings in Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels and a filming location for the 1999 movie The Talented Mr. Ripley starring Jude Law, Matt Damon, and Gwyneth Paltrow.
I visited Ischia for the first time 15 years ago, but it took a return visit to convince me of its charms. I’ve since been back a handful of times and every time I go, the island gets deeper under my skin. I’ve visited in the spring and fall, but it really comes alive in the summer. And it’s no wonder why—it’s the ideal spot for an Italian beach holiday. There are rocky coves, sandy bays dotted with umbrellas, and beach clubs that range from humble wooden decks to exclusive enclaves. Then of course there are the thermal parks, verdant gardens, and quaint towns full of restaurants, bars, and boutiques.
There are six main municipalities on the island, plus smaller villages, so while it gets busy in the summer, it never feels as crowded as Capri because there’s more space to roam around. If you’re planning a summer trip to Italy and want a well-rounded, authentic experience, go to Ischia. Once you arrive via hydrofoil from Naples, it’s easy to get around with taxis or buses. With 72 hours, you can get a taste of what the island has to offer, but you could easily stay a week, like my husband Marco and I did last summer.
DAY ONE
Arrive and check into your hotel before visiting one of the island’s most impressive gardens and spending some time exploring Forio, its largest town.
3 p.m. - Check in and get situated
Ischia has accommodations for every taste and budget. For pampering luxury, it’s hard to beat Mezzatorre, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World by the ultra-chic Pellicano Hotels group with rooms in a historic watchtower and a beach club on a private bay. Just up the hill, the family-run San Montano Resort & Spa perched on Monte Vico has unparalleled views and an enviable circuit of 11 thermal pools.
Another classic choice is the Albergo della Regina Isabella, whose retro vibes hark back to its heyday in the 1950s, when it was built by filmmaker and publisher Angelo Rizzoli, who invited his famous friends to stay there.
For a more budget-friendly option, I love Villa Ravino, which offers charmingly simple rooms and apartments on the grounds of the Giardini Ravino, a massive botanical garden filled with cacti and succulents.
