I think Sicily is one of Italy’s most beautiful, fascinating, and misunderstood places—and based on the reactions to last month’s issue dedicated to the island, it seems that many of you agree. So this week, I’m delving a bit deeper into one of my favorite places on the island: Ortigia.
I lived on Ortigia and then on Siracusa proper a few years ago. As beautiful as it is, I got a bit bored and relocated to Palermo, which I adore! Apollonion was my favorite restaurant on Ortigia! And you should check out the Santa Lucia market on Sunday mornings, directly across the Piazza from the church. It’s absolutely incredible; it’s primarily food, but there’s also antiques and housewares. I write about my life and travels on Wisdom She Wrote; I hope you’ll read us soon!
Did you visit the old Jewish baths that were discovered under a hotel in Ortigia?? I think there is still some puzzlement about exactly where the fresh water comes from, both there and at the Aretusa basin where the papyrus grows.
My husband and I will be staying in Ortigia for about 8 days at the end of October. I cannot wait! Thank you for this article! Bookmarking it so I can come back to it as I start planning.
I'm already dreaming of all of the almond granitas with espresso that I'll be consuming every day, probably a couple times a day. 😂 There is a Sicilian bakery that I can't stay away from when I'm in Rome called I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza and I always get a grande almond granita with a shot of espresso and pour it over the granita. It's heaven.
Thank you for this! I’ve always wanted to return to Italy for a long trip, but never included Sicily in the itinerary. Now it sounds like I have to include this beautiful area.
I would definitely recommend including Sicily in your itinerary! Ortigia is one of my favorite places, but there's so much to see and do on the island.
Ortigia is one of my favorite places in Sicily. They make panini at the market that still haunt me: so rich and so good. They add any ingredients you want, not just cold cuts and local cheeses, but mushrooms and pickled onions and fresh herbs. But the line at lunch time is long, so go before 11am or after 2pm.
I lived on Ortigia and then on Siracusa proper a few years ago. As beautiful as it is, I got a bit bored and relocated to Palermo, which I adore! Apollonion was my favorite restaurant on Ortigia! And you should check out the Santa Lucia market on Sunday mornings, directly across the Piazza from the church. It’s absolutely incredible; it’s primarily food, but there’s also antiques and housewares. I write about my life and travels on Wisdom She Wrote; I hope you’ll read us soon!
Thanks for the tip! I’ll be sure to check out the market on my next trip. And I’ll subscribe to Wisdom She Wrote 😊
Wonderful! We look forward to your feedback. Enjoy!
Did you visit the old Jewish baths that were discovered under a hotel in Ortigia?? I think there is still some puzzlement about exactly where the fresh water comes from, both there and at the Aretusa basin where the papyrus grows.
No, I’ll have to try to find them next time!
I love Ortigia, great to read about it through your eyes! And thanks for linking my piece in Forbes :)
You packed lots of great tips in there! I’m sure it will be useful for others planning trips to Ortigia 😊
My husband and I will be staying in Ortigia for about 8 days at the end of October. I cannot wait! Thank you for this article! Bookmarking it so I can come back to it as I start planning.
I'm already dreaming of all of the almond granitas with espresso that I'll be consuming every day, probably a couple times a day. 😂 There is a Sicilian bakery that I can't stay away from when I'm in Rome called I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza and I always get a grande almond granita with a shot of espresso and pour it over the granita. It's heaven.
Oooh I don’t know that Sicilian bakery in Rome. I’ll have to go check it out when I need my granita fix. Thanks for the tip!
They even have the granitas in winter! 🙌 And their pastries are incredible too.
PS Local trains are infrequent. A trip from Taormina to Noto in 2008 was impossible without an overnight stay.
I think if you want to move around in Sicily, it’s best to have a car. We drove from Rome and took the ferry across the Strait of Messina.
Unforgetable times in Sicily. It's all good. Thanks for the updates.
What a beautful Baroque atoll it is. Thanks for reminding us to write about the time wd spent there a couple of years ago, Laura
I’d love to read about your experience in Ortigia!
As promised, Laura- here's our take on Ortigia. Do hope you enjoy it!
https://open.substack.com/pub/marcoandsabrina/p/sicilian-rites-of-spring-part-2?r=10ijux&utm_medium=ios
How fun! I love the descriptions of Noto too.
Thanks Laura. That means a lot!
Planning to go in September!
That should be a great time of year to be there!
Thank you for this! I’ve always wanted to return to Italy for a long trip, but never included Sicily in the itinerary. Now it sounds like I have to include this beautiful area.
I would definitely recommend including Sicily in your itinerary! Ortigia is one of my favorite places, but there's so much to see and do on the island.
Ortigia is one of my favorite places in Sicily. They make panini at the market that still haunt me: so rich and so good. They add any ingredients you want, not just cold cuts and local cheeses, but mushrooms and pickled onions and fresh herbs. But the line at lunch time is long, so go before 11am or after 2pm.
Those panini are worth waiting in line for!