Why You Should Plan a Trip to Emilia-Romagna
Issue #84
Rolling hills dotted with vineyards, Medieval cities filled with artistic treasures, a coastline with popular beaches, farms that produce prized cheeses and charcuterie, and convivial trattorias that serve fresh pasta and other local products—it may sound like Tuscany, but I’m actually describing Emilia Romagna. Tuscany’s neighbor to the north, Emilia-Romagna produces some of Italy’s most famous foods—Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar from Modena—yet it’s rarely among the first places in Italy that travelers visit.
My first trip to Emilia-Romagna was almost 15 years ago. Since then I’ve returned a handful of times and every time I go, I fall in love with the region more. Over the years, I’ve visited vineyards in the hills of Romagna, gaped in awe at the Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, delved into cinematic history at the Fellini Museum in Rimini, seen how Parmigiano Reggiano is made at a dairy in Parma, checked into superstar chef Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara Gilmore’s B&B in Modena, and ate my way through Bologna—and there are still so many things I want to do in the region.
Emilia derives from the Via Aemilia, an ancient Roman road that ran from Rimini on the Adriatic Coast to Piacenza in the northwestern part of the region. Today you can walk along Via Emilia in Modena (it’s now part of the modern city) and there’s a regional train line that connects the cities along the ancient road. Romagna was ruled by the papacy for centuries, while Emilia was divided between the duchy of Parma and Piacenza (ruled by the Farnese family) and the duchy of Modena (ruled by the Este family).
To understand the region’s rich history, I would recommend starting in its three most important cities: Bologna, Parma, and Modena. Bologna is the region’s capital and most populous city, with a massive student population. It’s home to the University of Bologna, which was established in 1088 and is the oldest university in the world.
When I was there in February, I visited the Archiginnasio Palace, which contains the library and the Anatomical Theater, where doctors once performed surgeries in front of an audience of students. The city is also famous for its miles of porticoes, which run along many streets, providing shelter from the sun and the rain.
When in Bologna, you must try traditional specialties like tagliatelle al ragù bolognese, lasagna, and tortellini in brodo. Marco and mostly I stuck to the city’s old school restaurants and had a wonderful tagliatelle bolognese at Ristorante Grassilli, which opened in 1944 and is covered in black-and-white photos of famous past guests.
At Ristorante Diana, which opened in 1909, waiters in white jackets still serve tortellini in brodo tableside from a large silver tureen. We also loved the Enoteca Storica Faccioli, a wine bar focused on natural wine. It was the perfect place to graze on focaccia with pears and gorgonzola when we needed a break from pasta.
Parma is a gem of a city, with a historic center that’s easy to navigate on foot or bike (locals often get around by bike because the city is so flat). The Pilotta Museum complex is a must—it comprises the National Gallery, Farnese Theater (the monumental 17th-century theater built for the Farnese dukes), the Palatine Library, the Archeological Museum, and the Bodoni Museum (the oldest printing museum in Italy).
I visited in the late afternoon, shortly before the museum was closing, and found myself alone face-to-face with a Da Vinci. I also went to the Camera di San Paolo to see the ceiling frescoes by Correggio and was one of just a handful of visitors.
When in Parma, one of the most interesting things you can do is visit a dairy to see how Parmigiano Reggiano is made. On a trip organized by the Consortium for Parmigiano Reggiano, I went to Caseificio Montecoppe and watched the cheesemakers take the morning’s milk and start to transform it into cheese, saw the massive wheels aging on shelves, and did a vertical tasting. I also did a pasta-making class at Parma Rotta and had a fantastic dinner at Trattoria Ai Due Platani, where they serve gelato tableside at the end of the meal.
Modena is also a beautiful, well organized city with a compact historic center that’s ideal for strolling around. My trip was planned rather last minute, so I wasn’t able to eat at Massimo Bottura’s three-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana (you’ll need to book six months in advance if you want a table), but Marco and I had dinner at Franceschetta58, his casual bistro, and at Al Gatto Verde, the new restaurant at his B&B, Casa Maria Luigia.
We loved Casa Maria Luigia, which really feels more like a home than a hotel, and savored the tasting menu at Al Gatto Verde. The focus there is on wood-fired cooking, with dishes inspired by Sunday lunches in Modena and North American barbecue. I also loved visiting the Mercato Albinelli, where Bottura shops, and had a sandwich at Schiavoni, which his wife Lara Gilmore recommended.
Ravenna is worth visiting to see the glittering Byzantine mosaics, which decorate eight early Christian monuments. The city became the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century and subsequently of the Byzantine Empire. I was lucky enough to do a private evening tour of the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, which features dazzling gold mosaics that contrast against a deep blue starry sky. I also saw Dante’s tomb.
Rimini is a must-visit destination for Fellini fans. The famed director grew up there and his youthful memories of the city served as inspiration for his film Amarcord. He always stayed at the Grand Hotel Rimini when he returned to his hometown and the beautiful terrace and gardens will take you back to his 1960s heyday. The Fellini Museum, which is spread out over three sites in the center of town, delves into his imagination with a series of installations inspired by his films, including my personal favorite, La Dolce Vita.
The wine most closely associated with Emilia-Romagna is fizzy red Lambrusco, but a number of winemakers in the region are working with other grapes, including Sangiovese romagnolo and Albana. My favorite is Chiara Condello, a visionary young winemaker focused exclusively on making natural wines with Sangiovese romagnolo. Pandolfa is another great family-run winery in the hills around Forlì. And Fattoria Zerbina makes a fantastic passito called Scacco Matto.
Emilia-Romagna is also known as the Motor Valley because of the factories producing some of Italy’s fastest and most expensive cars and motorcycles. Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Ducati are all based in the area. Motor fans can go to the racetrack in Imola, and visit not one but two Ferrari museums (one in Modena and one in Maranello), or attend the Motor Valley Fest in Modena.
What strikes me most about the cities of Emilia-Romagna is how livable they are. Yes, they get some tourists, but they still feel like normal cities where you can almost blend in with the locals as they shop at the markets, meet friends for an aperitivo or dinner, and generally go about their daily business.
On my next trip, I would like to visit the medieval city of Ferrara and see the Collezione Maramotti, a contemporary art collection in the former Max Mara building in Reggio Emilia. Oh and dine at Osteria Francescana, of course. A girl can dream, can’t she?
Further Reading
For more tips, check out my recent guide to Emilia-Romagna for Vogue.
For Fodor’s, I wrote about going to Parma to learn how the world’s most counterfeited cheese is made. You can read that article here.
For Italy Magazine’s Inspired Stays series, I reviewed Casa Maria Luigia and Grand Hotel Majestic - Già Baglioni, the grand dame where Marco and I stayed in Bologna.
Also be sure to check out my interview with Bottura.
For the April 2022 issue of Hemispheres, I profiled Chiara Condello, one of the visionaries leading a winemaking revival in Emilia-Romagna. Flip to page 28 to read it.
You can see all of the New Roman Times’ coverage of under-the-radar destinations here.
Loved this region ✨ I couldn’t eat at any restaurants bc I was recovering from covid! Saving this post for my next visit. 😊
We visited the area in March and I fell in love! I loved that the cities felt so normal as you say. Definitely saving your recommendations for a return later this year !